PR9 Caldeirão Verde Levada Trail Guide 2026: Tunnels, Permits, and the Green Cauldron

The Caldeirão Verde - “the Green Cauldron” - is one of the most atmospheric destinations in Madeira. A volcanic amphitheatre hidden at the end of a 6.5km levada path, it receives a waterfall that plunges from the basalt cliffs into a wide pool of extraordinary moss-green colour. The route to reach it, the PR9 levada walk, is the most dramatic tunnel trail on the island: four unlit passages bored through the cliff face, each dripping with spring water, each requiring a headtorch and careful footing.

This is not Madeira’s easiest levada. At 13km return with four tunnel sections, it demands more preparation than the shorter, open-path routes. But the payoff - the caldeirão itself, framed by cliff walls draped in fern and moss - is unlike anything else on the island.

At a Glance

Trail code	PR9
Distance	13km return
Duration	4–5 hours
Difficulty	Moderate
Start/end	Queimadas Forest Park, near Santana
Elevation	~870m throughout, negligible gain
Permit fee	€4.50 per person (2026)
Headtorch	Essential

The 2026 Permit System

From January 2026, the PR9 requires advance booking through SIMplifica, Madeira’s official trail management platform. This is the single most important planning detail for anyone walking the levadas in 2026.

How to book:

1. Go to simplifica.madeira.gov.pt
2. Create an account - you need a passport or ID card number to register
3. Select Percurso PR9 - Caldeirão Verde
4. Choose your date and preferred start time
5. Pay €4.50 per person (children under 12 are free but must still be listed on the booking)
6. Save or print your confirmation - the QR code is checked at the Queimadas entrance gate

Arrival window: You must present your confirmation within 30 minutes of your booked start time. Mountain roads around Santana can be slow, particularly in summer. Build in buffer time for the drive up from the coast.

When to book: Weekend slots for July and August sell out two to three weeks in advance. For midweek walking in shoulder season (March–June, September–November), booking three to five days ahead is usually sufficient, but earlier is always safer.

Guided tour participants pay a reduced rate of approximately €3.00 per person - the operator handles the SIMplifica booking on your behalf.

Getting There from Funchal

By car: Queimadas is about 55km from Funchal, via the north-coast tunnel under the central massif (the Via Rápida VR1). Allow 1 hour 15 minutes. From Santana town, follow signs for Parque Florestal das Queimadas - the road climbs steeply for approximately 5km and ends at the forest park car park. Parking is free.

By bus and taxi: Horários do Funchal bus route 103 connects Funchal to Santana (journey time approximately 1 hour 45 minutes, with stops). From Santana, a taxi to Queimadas costs approximately €12–15 as of 2026. Arrange the return pickup in advance - taxis don’t wait at the trailhead.

By guided tour: Several Madeira walking tour operators run PR9 trips from Funchal with transport included, typically departing between 08:00 and 09:00 to be at the trailhead before mid-morning cloud builds. This is the most straightforward option if you don’t hire a car. Browse guided Caldeirão Verde tours from Funchal - most include transport, permit handling, and a guide for the tunnel sections.

Queimadas Forest Park

The starting point is one of the prettiest in Madeira. Queimadas - meaning “burnt land”, a reference to ancient forest clearances - is a beautifully restored woodland park at around 870m elevation. Thatched wooden pavilions in the traditional Madeiran style sit beside a small lake, and the surrounding forest of ancient heath trees and laurels feels genuinely primeval.

Take time here before starting the trail. The pavilions have shelter for rain, and there are basic toilet facilities. The forest park itself costs nothing to enter - the €4.50 permit covers the levada trail beyond the gate.

The Trail: What to Expect

The trail begins by following the Levada do Caldeirão Verde - a narrow irrigation channel that dates back centuries and carries water from the high north-coast catchments down through the laurissilva. The path runs alongside the channel for the full 6.5km outbound leg.

First 2km: The walk opens through tall heather and Madeira laurel, the trail well-marked and wide enough for easy passage. Views over the Santana valley appear in gaps through the canopy. This section is gentle and scenic - a good warm-up before the tunnels begin.

Tunnel 1 (approximately 2.3km from Queimadas): The first tunnel is the shortest, roughly 50 metres. Switch your headtorch on before entering. The floor is rough basalt, often wet, and the ceiling is low at points. Take it slowly.

Tunnels 2, 3, and 4: The tunnels increase in length, the longest running approximately 260 metres. In each one, the channel runs beside the path and the walls drip with spring water. Cold, even in summer. The combined tunnel sections take around 20–25 minutes to traverse at a careful pace.

After the fourth tunnel, the path opens into the Caldeirão Verde itself: a wide volcanic amphitheatre where a waterfall drops from the cliff above into the emerald pool below. The cliffs are draped in fern, lichen, and moss; the sound of the waterfall fills the bowl. This is the turnaround point for most walkers, and it’s worth staying 20–30 minutes to eat and take in the atmosphere.

What to Pack

• Headtorch: Non-negotiable. The tunnels are completely unlit.
• Waterproof jacket: The tunnels drip, and north-coast Madeira is frequently misty even on sunny days. Expect to get wet.
• Warm mid-layer: Temperatures inside the tunnels and in the shaded laurissilva section can be 5–8°C cooler than the Funchal coast.
• Sturdy walking shoes or light hiking boots: The tunnel floors are uneven basalt. Avoid sandals.
• 2 litres of water minimum: No water source or refreshments on the trail.
• Snacks and a packed lunch: There are no cafes at Queimadas (only a small visitor kiosk with erratic hours) and nothing on the trail.
• Walking poles: Optional, but useful in the tunnels for balance on the uneven floor.

Best Time of Year

The waterfalls and levada channel are fullest from November through April, when north-coast rainfall is at its peak. This is also when the mist and atmosphere in the caldeirão are most dramatic - the amphitheatre genuinely earns its name in winter.

May and June offer the best combination of full waterfalls, improving weather, and manageable crowds. July and August are Madeira’s peak season - the trails are busy and weekend permits sell out weeks ahead. September and October are excellent: the levada still runs well and cloud cover is lighter than winter.

Connecting with Other Madeira Walks

If you have time for two levada trails, PR9 pairs well with a shorter walk the same day or a different Madeira trail on a separate day. Our Madeira levada walks guide covers the full portfolio of classified PR trails including the easier PR6 Levada das 25 Fontes at Rabaçal and the high-altitude PR1 Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo traverse.

For broader island planning, the Madeira island guide covers where to stay, how to get around, and what else to do beyond the levadas. The north-coast base of Santana - the nearest village to Queimadas - is worth exploring before or after your walk.